Hungarian · Main
Gombapaprikás nokedlival
- Intermediate
- 40 min
- roughly 2 of 4 for cost
- Vegetarian
Leads with richness that coats and comforts, savory depth stacked from the pantry’s bass notes, melting away silken.
Ingredients
- 600 g brown mushrooms, thickly sliced
- 250 g onions, finely chopped
- 60 g butter
- 20 g édesnemes paprika (noble sweet, ground)
- 1 TV paprika (Hungarian white wax pepper), diced
- 250 g tejföl (20 percent sour cream)
- 20 g plain flour, for the tempering
- 150 ml water
- 300 g plain flour, for the nokedli
- 3 eggs
- 150 ml water, for the nokedli
- 8 g fine salt
- 20 g butter, for tossing
- fine salt
The skills inside
The words inside
Allergen screen
Found: gluten · dairy · egg
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
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Method
- Cook the onion in the butter over a low flame until slack and pale gold, add the mushrooms and diced wax pepper, and cook hard until their water has boiled away and the pan squeaks.
- Off the heat and off the boil, stir the paprika into the fat, pour in the water at once, season and simmer for ten minutes.
- Beat the nokedli flour, eggs, water and salt to a thick sticky batter, rest it, then scrape thin ribbons off a wet board into rolling water and lift them out as they bob up.
- Whisk the tempering flour into the sour cream, then beat in three ladles of the hot mushroom liquid one at a time until the mixture is loose and hot to the finger.
- Pour the tempered cream back into the pan off the heat, bring it only to a tremble to cook out the flour, and never let it boil.
- Toss the drained nokedli in butter and spoon the paprikás over.
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Tempering a custard 59 recipes
- The hot liquid went into the eggs a little at a time with constant whisking, and only then did everything go back to the pot.
- The heat under it stayed gentle throughout and it was never allowed to boil.
- Stirred continuously and right into the corners of the pan, where it thickens first and sets unnoticed.
- Judged by behaviour: it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and hold a clean line when a finger is drawn through it.
- Taken off before it looks finished, and strained. Residual heat carries it the rest of the way, and a custard held on the heat until it looks right arrives past right.
Where it goes wrong The hot liquid went in too fast, or the pot went back over full heat to save time. The yolks set into threads before they could thicken smoothly, and a scrambled custard does not come back; straining hides a little of it and nothing hides the rest.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Nebbiolo (Langhe) or aged Pinot Noir
- Also Right
- White Burgundy for cream-based versions
- From the Taps
- Dubbel
- Zero-Proof
- Roasted barley tea
Earth speaking to earth: forest-floor reds echo fungal depth; truffle and Nebbiolo literally share a hillside and a season.
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