The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

West African · Side

Moin Moin

  • Intermediate
  • 80 min
  • roughly 1 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

silky · fiery Leads with a silken, spoon-slow texture, real fire that builds and stays.

Ingredients

  • 300g black-eyed peas, soaked and SKINNED (rub in water, skins float off)
  • 1 red bell pepper, ½ onion, 1 scotch bonnet
  • 3 tbsp oil or palm oil, stock cube, salt
  • Optional: boiled egg quarters, flaked fish
  • Banana leaves, ramekins or foil cups

Equipment

Ramekins

The skills inside

Tempering a custardSteaming: basket, leaf and lid

The words inside

Black-eyed Pea

Allergen screen

Found: egg · fish

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Blend skinned peas with pepper, onion and minimal water: thick as pancake batter.
  2. Whisk in oil and seasoning until airy.
  3. Pour into leaves or cups; tuck in egg if using.
  4. Steam 45–50 min until set like firm custard. 50 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Tempering a custard 59 recipes

  • The hot liquid went into the eggs a little at a time with constant whisking, and only then did everything go back to the pot.
  • The heat under it stayed gentle throughout and it was never allowed to boil.
  • Stirred continuously and right into the corners of the pan, where it thickens first and sets unnoticed.
  • Judged by behaviour: it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and hold a clean line when a finger is drawn through it.
  • Taken off before it looks finished, and strained. Residual heat carries it the rest of the way, and a custard held on the heat until it looks right arrives past right.

Where it goes wrong The hot liquid went in too fast, or the pot went back over full heat to save time. The yolks set into threads before they could thicken smoothly, and a scrambled custard does not come back; straining hides a little of it and nothing hides the rest.

Steaming: basket, leaf and lid 130 recipes

  • Steam was running before the food went in: the water at a rolling boil and vapour coming steadily through the basket, rather than the whole thing warming up together.
  • Nothing touches the water at any point: the food sits clear of it throughout, and the level neither drops enough to boil dry nor rises enough to wet it.
  • The lid stayed on. Every lift costs the chamber its heat, and the number of lifts should be as close to none as the dish allows.
  • Lifted out, the surface is glossy and plump with its colour heightened rather than dulled: greens brighter than they went in, not olive.
  • Cooked through with the shape intact: it yields at the centre without having slumped or split, and there is no more than a spoonful of clean condensate beneath it.

Where it goes wrong The lid was loose or dripping and the condensate fell back onto the food, so it arrives waterlogged and pale with its seasoning washed down into the bottom of the dish.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Moin Moin Technique: Jollof & party smokeThe skill inside this recipeTechnique: Tempering a custardThe skill inside this recipe Search YouTube: Ndudu by Fafa on Moin Moin A YouTube search for Ndudu by Fafa and this dish. No affiliation.