The World Table

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New Mexico · Side

New Mexico Calabacitas

  • Easy
  • 35 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · aromatic · fiery · warm-spiced Leads with richness that coats and comforts, aromatics blooming from the first bite, fading in warm spice.

Ingredients

  • 4 zucchini or Mexican squash, diced
  • 3 tbsp oil or butter
  • 1 onion, diced
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 3 roasted green chiles, chopped
  • 2 ears corn, kernels cut off
  • 120ml cream or milk
  • 100g cheese, grated
  • Salt and pepper

Equipment

Grater / zester

The skills inside

Sweating aromatics: soft, never browned

Allergen screen

Found: dairy

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Sweat the onion and garlic in the oil until soft.
  2. Add the diced squash and cook 8 min until it begins to soften. 8 min
  3. Add the corn and green chile and cook 5 min more. 5 min
  4. Stir in the cream and cheese and cook until melted and bound.
  5. Season and serve as a side or a vegetarian main.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Sweating aromatics: soft, never browned 198 recipes

  • No colour anywhere: tipped under the light the pieces are translucent to pale gold, with no tan edges, no brown tips, and no browned flecks suspended in the fat.
  • The pan is quiet: a low steady hiss, not a crackle. A crackle means the moisture has gone and browning has already started.
  • The largest piece pressed against the side of the pan collapses without resistance and with no crunch left at its centre.
  • The fat is still clear and loose in the pan and the pan floor is clean: nothing caught, nothing browned on to deglaze, because there was never any fond to build.
  • It tastes sweet and mild with no raw allium bite at the back of the throat, and none of the roasted sweetness that belongs to the next technique up the heat scale.

Where it goes wrong The heat was too high and nothing covered the pan, so the pieces took colour before they softened; the finished dish carries a roasty sweetness where it wanted a clean one, and the pieces are still firm at the centre under browned edges.

At the Table

The Pour
Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
Also Right
Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
From the Taps
Crisp lager or pilsner
Zero-Proof
Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea

Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of New Mexico Calabacitas Search YouTube: J. Kenji López-Alt on New Mexico Calabacitas A YouTube search for J. Kenji López-Alt and this dish. No affiliation.