Lyon & Burgundy · Starter
Saucisson de Lyon en Brioche
- Advanced
- 55 min
- roughly 2 of 4 for cost
Leads with richness that coats and comforts, real fire that builds and stays, melting away silken.
Ingredients
- 1 coarse pork cooking sausage with pistachios, about 400 g
- 250 g strong plain flour
- 5 g fine salt
- 25 g caster sugar
- 10 g fresh yeast
- 3 cold eggs, about 150 g
- 150 g cold butter, diced
- 20 g Dijon mustard
- 1 egg yolk beaten with 10 ml milk, to glaze
- flour, for dusting the sausage
The skills inside
Kneading doughThe bare simmer: holding liquid below the boilChilling to firm: the fridge as binderThe wobble & the skewer: testing a bake
The words inside
Allergen screen
Found: gluten · dairy · egg · nuts · mustard
Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.
Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.
Method
- Mix flour, salt, sugar, yeast and the cold eggs to a shaggy dough and work it 10 min until it slaps clean off the bowl. Add the butter piece by piece and keep working until the dough is glossy and stretches to a windowpane. Chill overnight. 10 min
- Poach the sausage in water held at 80C (176F), never bubbling, until a skewer meets no resistance, about 30 min. Cool it in its liquid, peel off the skin, pat dry and chill until firm. 30 min
- Roll the cold dough to a rectangle 1 cm thick, paint the sausage with the mustard, dust it with flour and roll it up, sealing the seam and pinching the ends closed. Set it seam down in a lined loaf tin.
- Prove at around 24C (75F) until the dough springs back slowly from a fingertip and has filled the tin by half again, about 90 min. Glaze twice. 90 min
- Bake at 180C (355F) until deep chestnut and the core reads 65C (150F), about 35 min. Rest 20 min before cutting or the crumb drags. 35 min
How to tell it is going right
This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.
Chilling to firm: the fridge as binder 48 recipes
- It went cold before it was handled any further, and it went in spread flat and covered rather than as a warm mass that insulates its own centre.
- It is cold through rather than cold at the edge: tested at the middle it is as firm as it is at the rim.
- It holds its shape unsupported; it can be cut, portioned, rolled or lifted without slumping, tearing, or sticking to the hands.
- The fat in it has gone solid: it feels firm and waxy to the fingers rather than greasy and yielding.
- It survives the step it was chilled for, going into heat or a coating or a mould still holding its form rather than collapsing the moment it is touched.
Where it goes wrong It was given twenty minutes instead of the hours it needed, so it is firm at the rim and soft at the core: it slumps out of shape as it is portioned, and everything made from it spreads or breaks apart in the pan.
Kneading dough 57 recipes
- The work changed it: what began shaggy and rough is one smooth, cohesive mass, with nothing raggy hanging off it.
- The surface has gone satin and barely tacky, releasing cleanly from hands and board instead of leaving a trail.
- Worked to the point this dough asks for and no further: springy and elastic where structure is wanted, just brought together where tenderness is.
- Torn or cut open, the inside is uniform: no dry streaks, no unmixed pockets, no core of flour that never met the water.
- After its rest it rolls and shapes without snapping back. A dough that fights the pin needed more rest, not more force.
Where it goes wrong Sticking was fought with flour instead of technique or patience, stroke after stroke, until the dough had taken in far more than the formula asked; it turns tight and dry under the hands, and bakes dense however well everything else goes.
At the Table
- The Pour
- Off-dry Riesling (Mosel Kabinett)
- Also Right
- Gewürztraminer or off-dry Chenin
- From the Taps
- Crisp lager or pilsner
- Zero-Proof
- Agua fresca or iced jasmine tea
Sugar, cold, and low alcohol are the fire code: sweetness tames capsaicin while acid resets the palate; tannin would fan the flames.
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