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Bengali · Starter

Shukto

  • Advanced
  • 45 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

aromatic · rich · earthy · silky Leads with aromatics blooming from the first bite, richness that coats and comforts, melting away silken.

Ingredients

  • 150g uchche (bitter gourd), sliced 5mm
  • 2 shojne data (drumsticks), in 6cm lengths
  • 150g kanchkola (green banana), in 3cm batons
  • 200g potato, in thick batons
  • 150g mulo (white radish), in batons
  • 150g begun (aubergine), in thick fingers
  • 20g bori (sun-dried lentil dumplings)
  • 60ml mustard oil
  • 1 tbsp ghee
  • 1 tsp panch phoron
  • 0.5 tsp radhuni, ground
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tbsp ginger paste
  • 2 tsp white poppy seeds ground to a paste with 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds
  • 200ml whole milk
  • 1 tsp sugar and 1.5 tsp salt
  • 400ml water

The skills inside

Tempering a custardReducing a sauceKnife cuts: dice, julienne, bias

The words inside

Panch PhoronGreen Lentil

Allergen screen

Found: dairy · mustard

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Fry the bori in the mustard oil until they puff and go biscuit-gold, then lift them out. Fry the uchche slices by themselves until the edges crisp and darken, and set them aside on their own plate.
  2. Fry the remaining vegetables in batches until the cut edges take colour but the centres are still raw, then lift them out.
  3. Temper the panch phoron and bay leaves in the same oil over a low flame, and judge the pan by the methi: pull it the second the fenugreek darkens one shade, because ten seconds later the whole tempering is acrid.
  4. Return every vegetable except the gourd, add the ginger, the poppy and mustard paste, salt, sugar and water, cover, and simmer 15 minutes until a drumstick gives up its pulp to a fingernail. 15 min
  5. Drop the flame, stir the milk in below a simmer and cook 3 minutes until the gravy turns opaque white and just coats a spoon. 3 min
  6. Fold the fried gourd and bori back in, finish with the ghee and ground radhuni, and rest 5 minutes so the bori soften without going to mush. 5 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Tempering a custard 59 recipes

  • The hot liquid went into the eggs a little at a time with constant whisking, and only then did everything go back to the pot.
  • The heat under it stayed gentle throughout and it was never allowed to boil.
  • Stirred continuously and right into the corners of the pan, where it thickens first and sets unnoticed.
  • Judged by behaviour: it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and hold a clean line when a finger is drawn through it.
  • Taken off before it looks finished, and strained. Residual heat carries it the rest of the way, and a custard held on the heat until it looks right arrives past right.

Where it goes wrong The hot liquid went in too fast, or the pot went back over full heat to save time. The yolks set into threads before they could thicken smoothly, and a scrambled custard does not come back; straining hides a little of it and nothing hides the rest.

Reducing a sauce 95 recipes

  • A steady simmer with the surface moving, never a rolling boil that throws it up the sides and scorches what is left on the base.
  • Judged by behaviour rather than the clock: it coats the back of a spoon and holds a clean line when a finger is drawn through it.
  • The drop in volume is visible against the side of the pan: there is a line to see, not a guess about whether anything has happened.
  • Seasoned at the end and not the beginning, because salt concentrates at exactly the rate everything else does.
  • Nothing is catching underneath: a spoon drawn across the base comes up clean, with no browned film building where the heat is fiercest.

Where it goes wrong It was seasoned at the start and then reduced by half. The salt concentrated along with everything else, so the sauce reaches perfect body and is too salty to serve. And the only remedy is to dilute it and reduce it all over again.

At the Table

The Pour
Grüner Veltliner
Also Right
Vermentino or dry Chenin
From the Taps
Saison
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus & herbs

The vegetable whisperers: peppery, high-acid whites that flatter greens, roots, and grains without bullying them.

Saved on this device and kept across visits: export from My Menu to move them.

Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Shukto Technique: Tempering a custardThe skill inside this recipeTechnique: Reducing a sauceThe skill inside this recipe The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Bengali kitchen