On the Path of Study: Semester 3: The Sauté Station & Pan Sauces, Semester 4: The Braise, Semester 9: Seafood Mastery
From the Lexicon, Stocks: Blanc, Brun, Broth & Demi
WHITE STOCK: raw bones, gentle simmer: clean, pale, for velouté and light soups. BROWN STOCK: bones and mirepoix roasted first, tomato paste caramelized: deep color and roasted flavor, the mother of demi-glace and jus. BROTH is meat-based and seasoned to drink; stock is bone-based, unsalted, and built for gelatin. A proper stock sets like Jell-O cold. GLACE is stock reduced to a syrup; a spoon flavors a whole pan sauce. Skim relentlessly, never boil (cloudiness is emulsified scum), salt never (it concentrates downstream), and know that stock is the bank account every other station borrows from.
Read it in the Lexicon →How to tell it is going right
- It was actually kept: the liquid went into a container rather than down the drain, and the volume saved is enough to be worth using.
- It is clean: strained of solids and grit, and not clouded with the debris of whatever broke up in it.
- It tastes of what it cooked and tastes concentrated rather than washed out, and it is not so salty or so bitter that the only honest use is the bin.
- It was cooled quickly and stored cold, not left standing warm on the stove to be dealt with later.
- Used, it does the job the dish gives it (carrying flavour into a sauce, loosening the dish, or setting when chilled) rather than merely adding water back.
Where it goes wrong The pot was left to cool slowly on the stove and only strained the next day, so it soured overnight: what should have been the best ingredient in the dish goes in the bin, and the recipe gets water instead.
American
Aotearoa & Maori
Baltic
Brazilian
British
Burmese
California
Caribbean
Caucasus & Central Asian
Chilean
Chinese
Cuban
- Cuban
Frijoles Negros Dormidos
bright · earthy · briny
Intermediate 30 min plus overnight Vegetarian
Danish
Delaware
Dumpling Atlas
East African
Egyptian
Emilia-Romagna
Filipino
German
Ghanaian
Italian
- Italian
Ragù alla Bolognese
umami-deep · bright
Intermediate 3 h - Italian
Cotechino con Lenticchie
warm-spiced · earthy · aromatic
Advanced 1 h 30 m plus 24 hours
Jamaican
Jiangnan
- Jiangnan
Zui Ji
aromatic
Intermediate 30 min plus 24 hours - Jiangnan
Longjing Xia Ren
clean · simple
Intermediate 25 min - Jiangnan
Gui Hua Nuomi Ou
sweet-edged
Intermediate 35 min plus overnight Vegetarian
Kentucky
Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Levantine
Maryland
Massachusetts
Michigan
Minnesota
New Orleans
Nigerian
- Nigerian
Asun
fiery · bright · charred
Intermediate 30 min - Nigerian
Nkwobi
fiery · warm-spiced · nutty-toasted
Advanced 35 min
Noodle Atlas
- Noodle Atlas
Fresh Egg Pasta (Tagliatelle Master)
umami-deep · rich
Intermediate 1 h 30 m Vegetarian
North Dakota
Northern Chinese
Norwegian & Icelandic
Oklahoma
Pennsylvania
Peruvian
Pickle & Condiment Atlas
Polish
Rhode Island
- Rhode Island
Rhode Island Clear Clam Chowder
briny · rich · herb-fresh
Easy 50 min - Rhode Island
Stuffies
rich · bright · herb-fresh
Intermediate 60 min
Seafood Atlas
- Seafood Atlas
Linguine alle Vongole
briny · gently hot · rich
Intermediate 40 min - Seafood Atlas
Garides Saganaki
briny · herb-fresh · aromatic
Easy 30 min