The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Technique

Keeping the cooking liquid

60 dishes across 54 chapters · 0 marked cooked

On the Path of Study: Semester 3: The Sauté Station & Pan Sauces, Semester 4: The Braise, Semester 9: Seafood Mastery

From the Lexicon, Stocks: Blanc, Brun, Broth & Demi

WHITE STOCK: raw bones, gentle simmer: clean, pale, for velouté and light soups. BROWN STOCK: bones and mirepoix roasted first, tomato paste caramelized: deep color and roasted flavor, the mother of demi-glace and jus. BROTH is meat-based and seasoned to drink; stock is bone-based, unsalted, and built for gelatin. A proper stock sets like Jell-O cold. GLACE is stock reduced to a syrup; a spoon flavors a whole pan sauce. Skim relentlessly, never boil (cloudiness is emulsified scum), salt never (it concentrates downstream), and know that stock is the bank account every other station borrows from.

Read it in the Lexicon →

How to tell it is going right

  • It was actually kept: the liquid went into a container rather than down the drain, and the volume saved is enough to be worth using.
  • It is clean: strained of solids and grit, and not clouded with the debris of whatever broke up in it.
  • It tastes of what it cooked and tastes concentrated rather than washed out, and it is not so salty or so bitter that the only honest use is the bin.
  • It was cooled quickly and stored cold, not left standing warm on the stove to be dealt with later.
  • Used, it does the job the dish gives it (carrying flavour into a sauce, loosening the dish, or setting when chilled) rather than merely adding water back.

Where it goes wrong The pot was left to cool slowly on the stove and only strained the next day, so it soured overnight: what should have been the best ingredient in the dish goes in the bin, and the recipe gets water instead.

A chosen film How to Make Martha Stewart's Brown Beef Stock | Martha's Cooking School | Martha Stewart Martha Stewart Watch for: The roasting of bones and aromatics to a true deep brown, and then the deglazing of the roasting pan, which is the step that separates brown stock from white and carries all the fond into the pot.

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