The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Alsace & the North · Main

Choucroute Garnie à l'Alsacienne

  • Intermediate
  • 45 min
  • roughly 3 of 4 for cost

tangy-ferment · smoky · rich · warm-spiced Leads with ferment tang with real depth behind it, wood-smoke running underneath, fading in warm spice.

Ingredients

  • 1.5 kg raw fermented sauerkraut
  • 120 g goose fat, or lard
  • 2 onions, sliced thin
  • 500 ml dry Riesling or Sylvaner
  • 250 ml water
  • 15 juniper berries
  • 10 black peppercorns
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 2 cloves
  • 600 g smoked pork shoulder (palette fumée), in one piece
  • 300 g smoked pork belly, in one piece
  • 4 Strasbourg sausages
  • 2 Montbéliard sausages
  • 1 kg waxy potatoes, peeled
  • Coarse salt
  • Strong mustard and grated horseradish, to serve

Equipment

Grater / zester

The skills inside

FermentationSweating aromatics: soft, never brownedThe bare simmer: holding liquid below the boilSalted water & the float test

The words inside

RieslingJuniper

Allergen screen

Found: mustard · alcohol

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Rinse the sauerkraut once under cold water and squeeze it dry in handfuls. Taste a strand; it should still make you wince.
  2. Melt the goose fat in a deep pot and sweat the onions until slack and translucent with no colour, then pile in the kraut with the juniper, pepper, bay and cloves tied in muslin.
  3. Bed the smoked shoulder and belly down in the kraut, pour in wine and water to two thirds depth, cover and cook at 150C (300F) until a strand crushes to nothing between finger and thumb, about two and a half hours.
  4. Poach the Strasbourg and Montbéliard sausages in a separate pan of water held at 80C (176F) for 10 minutes, until plump and firm to a squeeze. Do not let it boil. 10 min
  5. Boil the potatoes in well salted water until a knife enters with no drag, then pile kraut, sliced meats, sausages and potatoes on a hot dish.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Fermentation 53 recipes

  • Held somewhere with a steady temperature it can actually work at, chosen on purpose rather than wherever there happened to be room.
  • There is visible activity before it is called started: bubbles, rise, or movement in the liquid. A ferment showing nothing after its first hours is not slow, it is not going.
  • It smells clean: sour, yeasty, or alcoholic, with nothing putrid, and with nothing fuzzy or coloured growing where air meets it.
  • Everything is under the liquid or under a cover, as the method requires: nothing solid left sitting dry in the air to spoil while the rest works.
  • Judged by taste and behaviour and then STOPPED: chilled, baked, or refrigerated at the point wanted, rather than left running because the stated hours had not elapsed.

Where it goes wrong It was run on the clock in a kitchen colder or warmer than the recipe assumed. Fermentation is a rate and not a duration, so the same number of hours gives an under-developed ferment in a cold room and a slack, over-soured one in a warm one, and only tasting it would have said which.

The bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil 183 recipes

  • The surface is read rather than assumed: bubbles break slowly in one or two places, or the surface merely shivers, and it does not reach a rolling boil at any point.
  • It was held there: the pot was watched and the heat adjusted rather than set once and left, and there is no tide mark up the pot wall from a boil-over.
  • The liquid stayed as clear as it should be: no clouding from agitation, and no fat churned into an emulsion through it.
  • Whatever is in the liquid is still intact: nothing shredded, broken up, or worried apart by movement.
  • The level is roughly where the elapsed time should have left it; a large drop is the evidence that it ran hotter than this while nobody was looking.

Where it goes wrong It was brought to a boil and then left on the same heat, so it churned for the whole cook: the liquid clouded, the fat emulsified into it, and the solids broke apart into the broth.

At the Table

The Pour
Riesling or Grenache
Also Right
Cru Beaujolais
From the Taps
Farmhouse saison
Zero-Proof
Cloudy apple juice, chilled

Pork loves fruit and gentle sweetness: orchard-note whites and low-tannin reds flatter it where heavy oak flattens.

Saved on this device and kept across visits: export from My Menu to move them.

Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Choucroute Garnie à l'Alsacienne Technique: FermentationThe skill inside this recipe The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Alsace & the North kitchen