The World Table

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Norwegian & Icelandic · Main

Plokkfiskur

  • Easy
  • 25 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost

rich · earthy Leads with richness that coats and comforts, an earthy, grounding base.

Ingredients

  • 600 g haddock or cod fillet, skinned and pin boned
  • 700 g floury potatoes, boiled in their skins the day before and left cold
  • 200 g onion, finely diced
  • 60 g butter
  • 40 g plain flour
  • 400 ml whole milk, warmed
  • 8 g fine salt
  • 3 g ground white pepper
  • dark rye bread and cold salted butter, to serve

The skills inside

Sweating aromatics: soft, never brownedThe bare simmer: holding liquid below the boilSalted water & the float test

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · fish

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Poach the fish in barely trembling salted water until the flakes separate under light pressure, about 5 minutes; lift out and leave to drain. 5 min
  2. Sweat the onion in the butter over low heat until translucent and sweet with no colour, stir in the flour and cook it out until it smells of biscuit rather than raw paste.
  3. Add the warm milk in three additions, whisking each one smooth, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon; season heavily with salt and white pepper.
  4. Peel the cold potatoes and break them into rough 2 cm lumps by hand, then fold them and the flaked fish through the sauce off the heat, in as few turns as you can manage.
  5. Warm through gently until steaming but not bubbling, and serve piled on dark rye with cold butter.

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the techniques it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

The bare simmer: holding liquid below the boil 183 recipes

  • The surface is read rather than assumed: bubbles break slowly in one or two places, or the surface merely shivers, and it does not reach a rolling boil at any point.
  • It was held there: the pot was watched and the heat adjusted rather than set once and left, and there is no tide mark up the pot wall from a boil-over.
  • The liquid stayed as clear as it should be: no clouding from agitation, and no fat churned into an emulsion through it.
  • Whatever is in the liquid is still intact: nothing shredded, broken up, or worried apart by movement.
  • The level is roughly where the elapsed time should have left it; a large drop is the evidence that it ran hotter than this while nobody was looking.

Where it goes wrong It was brought to a boil and then left on the same heat, so it churned for the whole cook: the liquid clouded, the fat emulsified into it, and the solids broke apart into the broth.

Salted water & the float test 188 recipes

  • The water was salted before anything went in, and tasting it confirms it: seasoned on the tongue, with the salt dissolved rather than sitting on the pot floor.
  • There is enough water, hot enough, that the pot returns to its boil quickly after the food goes in and never stops moving.
  • Where the dish uses the float as its signal, the signal is obeyed: the pieces rise and they come out then, not several minutes later once something else was finished.
  • Nothing is stuck to the bottom of the pot or welded to itself, and the water has not thickened into a cloudy sludge.
  • Drained on a bite rather than on the clock: resistance at the centre, with no chalky raw core.

Where it goes wrong The pot was too small and the water unsalted, so it never recovered its boil: the food sat in slack water, went gummy at the surface, and comes out bland in a way that no sauce afterwards can fix.

At the Table

The Pour
Vermentino or Sauvignon Blanc
Also Right
Albariño
From the Taps
Witbier
Zero-Proof
Sparkling water with citrus

Lean fish, bright acid, done: coastal whites built beside the same boats; the fresher the fish, the leaner the pour.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Plokkfiskur The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Norwegian & Icelandic kitchen