The World Table

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Emilia-Romagna · Dessert

Zuppa Inglese

  • Intermediate
  • 45 min
  • roughly 2 of 4 for cost
  • Vegetarian

rich · bright · fiery Leads with richness that coats and comforts, acid holding everything up to the light, on a slow, honest burn.

Ingredients

  • 500 ml whole milk
  • 5 egg yolks
  • 125 g caster sugar
  • 40 g farina 00
  • 1 strip unwaxed lemon zest
  • 25 g unsweetened cocoa powder
  • 300 g savoiardi, or day-old pan di Spagna cut in fingers
  • 150 ml alchermes
  • 50 ml water

Equipment

Grater / zester

The skills inside

Tempering a custard

Allergen screen

Found: gluten · dairy · egg

Screened for: gluten, dairy, egg, nuts, peanuts, fish, shellfish, molluscs, soy, sesame, celery, mustard, lupin, alcohol. Not screened: sulphites.

Screened by keyword from the ingredient list, not reviewed by a person; check every label for what the list cannot show.

Method

  1. Infuse the milk with the lemon zest at 80C (176F) for 10 minutes, then lift the zest out. 10 min
  2. Whisk the yolks, sugar and flour to a pale ribbon, temper in the hot milk, and cook it back over moderate heat, stirring into the corners of the pan, until it thickens and then blips once at 85C (185F).
  3. Divide the hot cream, beat the cocoa into one half until it is glossy and free of lumps, and press cling film onto the surface of both so no skin forms.
  4. Cut the alchermes with the water, dip each savoiardo in and out in a single second, and layer the biscuits with alternating pale and chocolate cream in a glass dish, finishing with cream.
  5. Chill at least 6 hours, until a spoon lifts a clean edge and the biscuit is moist through with no dry white core. 360 min

How to tell it is going right

This dish has no standard of its own yet. It is judged on the technique it exercises: checked at the pan, while there is still something to be done about it.

Tempering a custard 59 recipes

  • The hot liquid went into the eggs a little at a time with constant whisking, and only then did everything go back to the pot.
  • The heat under it stayed gentle throughout and it was never allowed to boil.
  • Stirred continuously and right into the corners of the pan, where it thickens first and sets unnoticed.
  • Judged by behaviour: it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon and hold a clean line when a finger is drawn through it.
  • Taken off before it looks finished, and strained. Residual heat carries it the rest of the way, and a custard held on the heat until it looks right arrives past right.

Where it goes wrong The hot liquid went in too fast, or the pot went back over full heat to save time. The yolks set into threads before they could thicken smoothly, and a scrambled custard does not come back; straining hides a little of it and nothing hides the rest.

At the Table

The Pour
Banyuls or Ruby Port
Also Right
PX Sherry
From the Taps
Imperial stout
Zero-Proof
Espresso

Chocolate wants fortified sweetness or roast-bitter contrast: the wine must out-sweet the plate, or oppose it entirely.

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Film school

This dish, cooked on camera Search films of Zuppa Inglese The cuisine, deeper Technique films from the Emilia-Romagna kitchen