On the Path of Study: Semester 1: Knife & Fire Foundations, Semester 4: The Braise, Semester 10: The Restaurateur's Capstone
From the Lexicon, Reduction, Nappe & Mounting
REDUCTION: simmering a liquid to evaporate water, concentrating flavor and body, the sauce-maker's primary move, always reduced BEFORE final seasoning (salt concentrates too). NAPPE: the classical doneness test: sauce coats the back of a spoon and holds a clean line drawn by a finger. MONTER AU BEURRE: 'mounting' cold butter cubes into a finished sauce off the heat, swirling, emulsifying in gloss, body, and richness; the last thirty seconds that make restaurant sauces taste like restaurant sauces. Together they are the grammar of à-la-minute saucing: reduce, season, mount, plate.
Read it in the Lexicon →How to tell it is going right
- A steady simmer with the surface moving, never a rolling boil that throws it up the sides and scorches what is left on the base.
- Judged by behaviour rather than the clock: it coats the back of a spoon and holds a clean line when a finger is drawn through it.
- The drop in volume is visible against the side of the pan: there is a line to see, not a guess about whether anything has happened.
- Seasoned at the end and not the beginning, because salt concentrates at exactly the rate everything else does.
- Nothing is catching underneath: a spoon drawn across the base comes up clean, with no browned film building where the heat is fiercest.
Where it goes wrong It was seasoned at the start and then reduced by half. The salt concentrated along with everything else, so the sauce reaches perfect body and is too salty to serve. And the only remedy is to dilute it and reduce it all over again.
Alsace & the North
American
Andalusia
- Andalusia
Salmorejo Cordobés
bright · aromatic · fiery
Easy 20 min - Andalusia
Rabo de Toro al Vino de Montilla
warm-spiced · gently hot · aromatic
Advanced 45 min plus overnight - Andalusia
Riñones al Jerez
bright · herb-fresh · aromatic
Intermediate 25 min
Argentine
Australian
Basque & Navarre
- Basque & Navarre
Txangurro a la Donostiarra
gently hot · rich · charred
Intermediate 45 min - Basque & Navarre
Idiazabal con Membrillo Casero
bright · earthy · nutty-toasted
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian
Bengali
- Bengali
Shukto
aromatic · rich · earthy
Advanced 45 min Vegetarian - Bengali
Chingri Malai Curry
rich · warm-spiced · earthy
Intermediate 35 min
Burmese
- Burmese
Mohinga
aromatic · nutty-toasted · tangy-ferment
Advanced 60 min - Burmese
Ohn No Khao Swe
aromatic · umami-deep · rich
Intermediate 35 min
Canadian
Caribbean
Chilean
Danish
- Danish
Stegt Flæsk med Persillesovs
rich · herb-fresh · briny
Intermediate 35 min - Danish
Boller i Karry
rich
Intermediate 40 min
Dominican
Dumpling Atlas
Emilia-Romagna
Emulsions & Pan Sauces
- Emulsions & Pan Sauces
The Deglazed Pan Sauce, White Wine and Shallot
rich · bright · aromatic
Intermediate 25 min - Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Cream Reduction, the Sauce That May Boil
rich · bright · aromatic
Easy 15 min Vegetarian - Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Flambé Pan Sauce, Brandy and Green Peppercorn
rich · gently hot · aromatic
Advanced 20 min
Ethiopian
Filipino
Florida
French
Georgian
German
- German
Rinderrouladen
rich · umami-deep · sweet-edged
Advanced 2 h 30 m - German
Rehrücken Baden-Baden
rich · bright · floral
Advanced 45 min
Ghanaian
Haitian
Hungarian
- Hungarian
Marhapörkölt
rich · aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 35 min - Hungarian
Lecsó
clean · simple
Easy 25 min Vegetarian
Idaho
Indian
Italian
- Italian
Chicken Piccata
rich · bright · briny
Easy 25 min - Italian
Pappardelle al Ragù d'Anatra
floral · aromatic · umami-deep
Intermediate 50 min - Italian
Osso Buco alla Milanese
bright · rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 45 min
Jamaican
- Jamaican
Brown Stew Chicken
smoky · fiery · herb-fresh
Intermediate 45 min - Jamaican
Gizzada
rich · sweet-edged · warm-spiced
Intermediate 45 min Vegetarian
Jiangnan
- Jiangnan
Hong Shao Rou
umami-deep · rich · sweet-edged
Intermediate 35 min - Jiangnan
Gui Hua Nuomi Ou
sweet-edged
Intermediate 35 min plus overnight Vegetarian
Kansai & Osaka
Kerala & the Malabar Coast
- Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Meen Moilee
aromatic · rich · earthy
Intermediate 30 min - Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Ada Pradhaman
rich · sweet-edged · earthy
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian
Korean
Levantine
Lyon & Burgundy
- Lyon & Burgundy
Gratin Dauphinois
rich · warm-spiced · aromatic
Intermediate 25 min Vegetarian - Lyon & Burgundy
Oeufs en Meurette
rich · aromatic · warm-spiced
Advanced 50 min - Lyon & Burgundy
La Pochouse Verdunoise
rich · umami-deep · aromatic
Advanced 55 min
Massachusetts
Mexican
Nevada
Nigerian
North Dakota
Oaxacan
Offal & the Whole Animal
- Offal & the Whole Animal
Trippa alla Romana
bright · herb-fresh · umami-deep
Intermediate 40 min - Offal & the Whole Animal
Calf's Liver, Onions and Sage
rich · bright · briny
Intermediate 35 min
Ohio
Okinawa
Oregon
Pacific Islands
Pastry Foundations
Persian
- Persian
Ash-e Reshteh
herb-fresh · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 45 min Vegetarian - Persian
Sholeh Zard
floral · nutty-toasted · rich
Intermediate 35 min Vegetarian
Peruvian
Peruvian Highlands
Provence & the Midi
Punjabi & North Indian
Sichuan
Sicilian
- Sicilian
Sfincione Palermitano
umami-deep · briny · rich
Intermediate 45 min plus overnight - Sicilian
Cuscusu di Pesce alla Trapanese
herb-fresh · floral · briny
Advanced 70 min
Soup & Stew Atlas
South African
- South African
Mutton Bunny Chow
aromatic · warm-spiced · earthy
Intermediate 40 min - South African
Blatjang
aromatic · bright · nutty-toasted
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian - South African
Koeksisters
rich · bright · warm-spiced
Advanced 45 min plus overnight Vegetarian
Spanish
Sri Lankan
Stock & Fond Atlas
- Stock & Fond Atlas
Fumet de Poisson
umami-deep · rich · gently hot
Intermediate 35 min - Stock & Fond Atlas
Prawn Head and Shell Stock
umami-deep · herb-fresh · bright
Intermediate 40 min
Tamil & the South
The French Basque & Gascony
- The French Basque & Gascony
Piperade
briny · aromatic · warm-spiced
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - The French Basque & Gascony
Poulet Basquaise
rich · aromatic · herb-fresh
Intermediate 35 min - The French Basque & Gascony
Axoa de Veau d'Espelette
aromatic · gently hot · warm-spiced
Intermediate 30 min - The French Basque & Gascony
Ttoro de Saint-Jean-de-Luz
briny · aromatic · nutty-toasted
Advanced 45 min
The Saucier
- The Saucier
Sauce Velouté
rich · bright · silky
Intermediate 30 min - The Saucier
Sauce Espagnole & Demi-Glace
rich · herb-fresh · umami-deep
Advanced 4 h