The World Table

An interactive culinary compendium: recipes, lexicon and study

Technique

Skimming: foam, fat and a clear broth

73 dishes across 56 chapters · 0 marked cooked

On the Path of Study: Semester 4: The Braise, Semester 10: The Restaurateur's Capstone

From the Lexicon, Stocks: Blanc, Brun, Broth & Demi

WHITE STOCK: raw bones, gentle simmer: clean, pale, for velouté and light soups. BROWN STOCK: bones and mirepoix roasted first, tomato paste caramelized: deep color and roasted flavor, the mother of demi-glace and jus. BROTH is meat-based and seasoned to drink; stock is bone-based, unsalted, and built for gelatin. A proper stock sets like Jell-O cold. GLACE is stock reduced to a syrup; a spoon flavors a whole pan sauce. Skim relentlessly, never boil (cloudiness is emulsified scum), salt never (it concentrates downstream), and know that stock is the bank account every other station borrows from.

Read it in the Lexicon →

How to tell it is going right

  • It is held below a rolling boil for the whole time. Agitation drives fat and fine protein into the liquid as an emulsion, and nothing skimmed afterwards will take them back out.
  • The grey foam that rises in the first minutes is lifted off and discarded rather than stirred back in.
  • Fat is taken from the surface where it gathers, the pot moved off the centre of the heat if that is what it takes to collect it in one place.
  • The liquid is visibly clearer at the end than it was at the start: it is possible to see down into it.
  • Nothing lifted off goes back in. What was skimmed is discarded, not tipped back once the ladle is full.

Where it goes wrong The pot was allowed to boil, usually while something else was being attended to. Fat and protein emulsify into the liquid under agitation and cannot be lifted off afterwards, so the finished broth stays cloudy and greasy however patiently it is skimmed from then on.

A chosen film Classic Chicken Broth/Stock | Chef Jean-Pierre Chef Jean-Pierre Watch for: The grey scum being lifted off as the pot comes up to heat, and the pot then held at a bare shiver rather than a boil: skimming plus never boiling is what keeps the broth clear.

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