On the Path of Study: Semester 4: The Braise, Semester 10: The Restaurateur's Capstone
From the Lexicon, Stocks: Blanc, Brun, Broth & Demi
WHITE STOCK: raw bones, gentle simmer: clean, pale, for velouté and light soups. BROWN STOCK: bones and mirepoix roasted first, tomato paste caramelized: deep color and roasted flavor, the mother of demi-glace and jus. BROTH is meat-based and seasoned to drink; stock is bone-based, unsalted, and built for gelatin. A proper stock sets like Jell-O cold. GLACE is stock reduced to a syrup; a spoon flavors a whole pan sauce. Skim relentlessly, never boil (cloudiness is emulsified scum), salt never (it concentrates downstream), and know that stock is the bank account every other station borrows from.
Read it in the Lexicon →How to tell it is going right
- It is held below a rolling boil for the whole time. Agitation drives fat and fine protein into the liquid as an emulsion, and nothing skimmed afterwards will take them back out.
- The grey foam that rises in the first minutes is lifted off and discarded rather than stirred back in.
- Fat is taken from the surface where it gathers, the pot moved off the centre of the heat if that is what it takes to collect it in one place.
- The liquid is visibly clearer at the end than it was at the start: it is possible to see down into it.
- Nothing lifted off goes back in. What was skimmed is discarded, not tipped back once the ladle is full.
Where it goes wrong The pot was allowed to boil, usually while something else was being attended to. Fat and protein emulsify into the liquid under agitation and cannot be lifted off afterwards, so the finished broth stays cloudy and greasy however patiently it is skimmed from then on.
Alaska
Alsace & the North
Aotearoa & Maori
Armenian
Australian
Bengali
Brazilian
Breakfast Atlas
British
Cajun & Creole
Canadian
Caucasus & Central Asian
Chilean
Chinese
- Chinese
Dan Tat (Hong Kong Egg Tart)
silky · rich · floral
Advanced 50 min Vegetarian - Chinese
Guihua Nuomi Ou (Osmanthus Lotus Root with Glutinous Rice)
clean · simple
Intermediate 35 min plus 4 hours Vegetarian
Colombian
Cuban
- Cuban
Frijoles Negros Dormidos
bright · earthy · briny
Intermediate 30 min plus overnight Vegetarian
Egyptian
- Egyptian
Besara
herb-fresh · bright · briny
Easy 30 min Vegetarian - Egyptian
Molokhia bi Taqliya
aromatic · bright · fiery
Intermediate 25 min
Emilia-Romagna
Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Ethiopian
- Ethiopian
Niter Kibbeh
rich · aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 20 min Vegetarian - Ethiopian
Kik Alicha
earthy · aromatic · gently hot
Intermediate 45 min Vegetarian
Filipino
French
- French
Blanquette de Veau à l'Ancienne
rich · bright · umami-deep
Intermediate 60 min - French
Sauce Grand Veneur
rich · gently hot · bright
Advanced 40 min
Georgian
- Georgian
Kharcho
earthy · nutty-toasted · rich
Intermediate 40 min - Georgian
Churchkhela
earthy · nutty-toasted · tangy-ferment
Advanced 45 min Vegetarian
Haitian
Holiday Feast Atlas
Indian
Iraqi
Irish
Jiangnan
Levantine
Lyon & Burgundy
Maine
Malaysian
Massachusetts
Mexican
- Mexican
Birria de Chivo
warm-spiced · bright · earthy
Advanced 60 min plus overnight - Mexican
Barbacoa de Borrego en Penca de Maguey
warm-spiced · bright · herb-fresh
Advanced 55 min plus overnight
Nevada
Nigerian
North Dakota
Norwegian & Icelandic
- Norwegian & Icelandic
Raspeballer
rich
Intermediate 45 min - Norwegian & Icelandic
Kjötsúpa
clean · simple
Easy 25 min - Norwegian & Icelandic
Skyr
silky · rich · fiery
Intermediate 25 min plus 8 to 12 hours Vegetarian - Norwegian & Icelandic
Brunost
rich · sweet-edged · silky
Advanced 60 min plus overnight Vegetarian
Okinawa
Oregon
Pennsylvania
Polish
Romanian & Bulgarian
Russian & Ukrainian
Sichuan
Soup & Stew Atlas
- Soup & Stew Atlas
Birria de Res con Consomé
bright · rich · herb-fresh
Advanced 4 h 30 m plus overnight - Soup & Stew Atlas
Snert (Erwtensoep)
earthy · smoky · rich
Easy 2 h 30 m - Soup & Stew Atlas
Jamaican Oxtail Stew
rich · sweet-edged · aromatic
Intermediate 4 h
Stock & Fond Atlas
- Stock & Fond Atlas
Brown Veal Stock
umami-deep · rich · fiery
Advanced 60 min plus 8 to 12 hours - Stock & Fond Atlas
Prawn Head and Shell Stock
umami-deep · herb-fresh · bright
Intermediate 40 min - Stock & Fond Atlas
Pho Bo Broth
warm-spiced · charred · umami-deep
Advanced 50 min plus 5 hours - Stock & Fond Atlas
Chicken Consommé, Raft Method
gently hot · herb-fresh
Advanced 45 min
Swedish
- Swedish
Ärtsoppa med Punsch
smoky · bright
Easy 25 min plus overnight - Swedish
Kalops
warm-spiced · rich · bright
Intermediate 35 min
Tamil & the South
The French Basque & Gascony
- The French Basque & Gascony
Ttoro de Saint-Jean-de-Luz
briny · aromatic · nutty-toasted
Advanced 45 min - The French Basque & Gascony
Garbure Béarnaise
warm-spiced · aromatic · herb-fresh
Intermediate 35 min
The Saucier
- The Saucier
Sauce Velouté
rich · bright · silky
Intermediate 30 min - The Saucier
Sauce Espagnole & Demi-Glace
rich · herb-fresh · umami-deep
Advanced 4 h