On the Path of Study: Semester 5: Bread & Fermentation, Semester 9: Seafood Mastery
From the Lexicon, Steaming & En Papillote
Cooking in vapor at 100°C: gentler than boiling (no agitation, no flavor leached into water) and the technique of choice where the ingredient IS the dish: Cantonese fish, dim sum, couscous, tamales, Christmas pudding. EN PAPILLOTE seals food in parchment so it steams in its own moisture plus wine and butter, a self-saucing micro-oven with tableside theater. Steam burns worse than boiling water (it releases latent heat on contact); open lids and packets away from yourself, always, and never let the pot run dry: the smell of scorched steamer is a lesson learned once.
Read it in the Lexicon →How to tell it is going right
- Steam was running before the food went in: the water at a rolling boil and vapour coming steadily through the basket, rather than the whole thing warming up together.
- Nothing touches the water at any point: the food sits clear of it throughout, and the level neither drops enough to boil dry nor rises enough to wet it.
- The lid stayed on. Every lift costs the chamber its heat, and the number of lifts should be as close to none as the dish allows.
- Lifted out, the surface is glossy and plump with its colour heightened rather than dulled: greens brighter than they went in, not olive.
- Cooked through with the shape intact: it yields at the centre without having slumped or split, and there is no more than a spoonful of clean condensate beneath it.
Where it goes wrong The lid was loose or dripping and the condensate fell back onto the food, so it arrives waterlogged and pale with its seasoning washed down into the bottom of the dish.
Alaska
Alsace & the North
American
Aotearoa & Maori
- Aotearoa & Maori
Boil-Up
silky
Intermediate 35 min - Aotearoa & Maori
Hāngī
clean · simple
Advanced 3 h plus three to four hours - Aotearoa & Maori
Oven Hāngī Vegetables
smoky · rich · charred
Intermediate 25 min Vegetarian - Aotearoa & Maori
Kūtai and Kūmara Chowder
rich · briny · herb-fresh
Intermediate 45 min
Arizona
Armenian
Australian
- Australian
Aussie Meat Pie
umami-deep · rich
Advanced 60 min plus overnight - Australian
Roast Kent Pumpkin, Warrigal Greens and Macadamia
gently hot · bright · sweet-edged
Easy 20 min Vegetarian
Baltic
Brazilian
Bread Atlas
California
Canadian
- Canadian
Montreal Smoked Meat
smoky · aromatic · sweet-edged
Advanced 60 min plus 8 to 10 days - Canadian
Hodge Podge
rich · herb-fresh · earthy
Easy 20 min Vegetarian
Cantonese
- Cantonese
Suen Yung Jing Daai Ji (Steamed Scallops with Garlic and Fun See)
aromatic · fiery · umami-deep
Intermediate 20 min - Cantonese
Gon Chau Ngau Ho (Dry-Fried Beef Ho Fun)
umami-deep · smoky · sweet-edged
Advanced 20 min - Cantonese
Cheung Fun with Sweet Soy (Rice Noodle Rolls)
nutty-toasted · aromatic · umami-deep
Advanced 45 min Vegetarian - Cantonese
Lo Mai Gai (Lotus Leaf Sticky Rice Parcels)
umami-deep · rich · briny
Advanced 45 min plus 4 hours - Cantonese
Baak Cheuk Gai Lan (Blanched Gai Lan with Ginger Oil)
aromatic · umami-deep · briny
Easy 12 min Vegetarian - Cantonese
Geung Jup Jong Nai (Ginger Milk Curd)
aromatic · silky
Easy 10 min Vegetarian
Catalonia
- Catalonia
Calçots a la Brasa
charred
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian - Catalonia
Escalivada
charred · aromatic · smoky
Easy 25 min Vegetarian
Caucasus & Central Asian
Chilean
- Chilean
Pulmay (Curanto en Olla)
briny · aromatic · gently hot
Intermediate 30 min - Chilean
Sopaipillas de Zapallo
rich · gently hot · sweet-edged
Intermediate 35 min Vegetarian
Chinese
- Chinese
Steamed Fish, Ginger & Scallion
aromatic · herb-fresh
Intermediate 20 min - Chinese
Ma Tai Gou (Water Chestnut Cake)
rich · charred
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Connecticut
Danish
Dominican
- Dominican
Mangú
bright · rich
Easy 20 min Vegetarian - Dominican
Pastelón de Plátano Maduro
rich · briny · umami-deep
Intermediate 45 min
Dumpling Atlas
- Dumpling Atlas
Xiao Long Bao
nutty-toasted · aromatic · umami-deep
Advanced 1 h 35 m plus overnight - Dumpling Atlas
Har Gow
nutty-toasted · rich
Advanced 60 min - Dumpling Atlas
Momo, Kathmandu Style
aromatic · nutty-toasted · fiery
Intermediate 55 min - Dumpling Atlas
Hitokuchi Gyoza, Hakata Style
aromatic · nutty-toasted · herb-fresh
Intermediate 55 min
East African
- East African
Injera
tangy-ferment
Advanced 60 min plus 3–5 days Vegetarian - East African
Gomen Wat
aromatic · warm-spiced · gently hot
Easy 40 min Vegetarian
Emilia-Romagna
Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Ethiopian
Filipino
Georgian
Ghanaian
Grill & BBQ Atlas
Holiday Feast Atlas
- Holiday Feast Atlas
Christmas Pudding
rich · sweet-edged · silky
Advanced 7 h plus 6 hours Vegetarian - Holiday Feast Atlas
Matzo Ball Soup
herb-fresh · rich · earthy
Intermediate 3 h
Illinois
Iraqi
- Iraqi
Masgouf
rich · bright · earthy
Advanced 45 min - Iraqi
Quzi
warm-spiced · nutty-toasted · rich
Advanced 40 min plus 4 hours - Iraqi
Timman Bagilla
rich · herb-fresh · briny
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Irish
- Irish
Irish Stew
rich · herb-fresh
Easy 2 h 30 m - Irish
Champ
rich · herb-fresh
Easy 35 min Vegetarian
Italian
Japanese
- Japanese
Gyoza
aromatic · gently hot · bright
Intermediate 60 min - Japanese
Sakuramochi, Domyoji Style
bright · floral · nutty-toasted
Advanced 35 min Vegetarian
Jiangnan
- Jiangnan
Dongpo Rou
aromatic · umami-deep · rich
Advanced 30 min - Jiangnan
Sheng Jian Bao
nutty-toasted · aromatic · fiery
Advanced 55 min
Kansai & Osaka
- Kansai & Osaka
Butatama (Osaka Okonomiyaki)
umami-deep · rich · briny
Intermediate 30 min - Kansai & Osaka
Ikayaki, Sennichimae Style
umami-deep · rich
Easy 15 min
Kansas
Kerala & the Malabar Coast
- Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Puttu
clean · simple
Easy 20 min Vegetarian - Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Thalassery Kozhi Biryani
aromatic · warm-spiced · rich
Advanced 55 min
Korean
Kyoto & Kaiseki
Lunch Atlas
Maine
Malaysian
Maryland
Massachusetts
- Massachusetts
Boston Clam Chowder
briny · rich
Intermediate 60 min - Massachusetts
Boston Brown Bread
rich · sweet-edged · earthy
Intermediate 2 h 30 m Vegetarian
Mexican
Michigan
Moroccan
- Moroccan
Seven-Vegetable Couscous
gently hot · rich · sweet-edged
Intermediate 70 min Vegetarian - Moroccan
Zaalouk
bright · herb-fresh · briny
Easy 40 min Vegetarian
New York
Noodle Atlas
North Carolina
Norwegian & Icelandic
Offal & the Whole Animal
Okinawa
Pacific Islands
- Pacific Islands
Palusami
rich · bright · silky
Intermediate 25 min Vegetarian - Pacific Islands
Lovo
rich · smoky
Advanced 60 min - Pacific Islands
'Ulu Tao
charred · rich
Easy 15 min Vegetarian - Pacific Islands
Fa'ausi
rich · sweet-edged
Intermediate 35 min Vegetarian
Pastry Foundations
Persian
Peruvian Highlands
Polish
Punjabi & North Indian
Rhode Island
- Rhode Island
Rhode Island Clear Clam Chowder
briny · rich · herb-fresh
Easy 50 min - Rhode Island
Stuffies
rich · bright · herb-fresh
Intermediate 60 min - Rhode Island
Rhode Island Hot Wieners
earthy · warm-spiced · fiery
Intermediate 75 min
Romanian & Bulgarian
Seafood Atlas
- Seafood Atlas
Pla Neung Manao
aromatic · umami-deep · sweet-edged
Intermediate 35 min - Seafood Atlas
Cantonese Steamed Fish
herb-fresh · aromatic · smoky
Intermediate 30 min - Seafood Atlas
Salmon en Papillote
bright · rich · herb-fresh
Easy 30 min
Senegalese
- Senegalese
Thiébou Yapp
umami-deep · herb-fresh · aromatic
Advanced 55 min - Senegalese
Thiakry
rich · floral · sweet-edged
Intermediate 25 min Vegetarian
Sichuan
Sicilian
South African
Sri Lankan
- Sri Lankan
Parippu
earthy · rich · aromatic
Easy 22 min Vegetarian - Sri Lankan
Kukul Mas Curry
warm-spiced · aromatic · rich
Intermediate 30 min - Sri Lankan
Wattalappam
sweet-edged · rich · warm-spiced
Intermediate 20 min Vegetarian - Sri Lankan
Watalappan
sweet-edged · nutty-toasted · rich
Intermediate 20 min Vegetarian
Street Food Atlas
- Street Food Atlas
Tamales Rojos
rich · gently hot · earthy
Advanced 4 h - Street Food Atlas
Hane-tsuki Gyoza
aromatic · gently hot · bright
Advanced 1 h 30 m
Tamil & the South
Tennessee
Thai
The Bakery
- The Bakery
Country Sourdough Loaf
tangy-ferment
Advanced 5 h plus overnight Vegetarian - The Bakery
Baguette de Tradition
tangy-ferment
Advanced 4 h 40 m plus overnight Vegetarian - The Bakery
Flour Tortillas
rich
Easy 60 min Vegetarian - The Bakery
Ciabatta
briny
Advanced 4 h 20 m Vegetarian
The French Basque & Gascony
The Rice Bowl
The Vegetable-Led Plate
- The Vegetable-Led Plate
Brined Whole Roast Cauliflower
umami-deep · tangy-ferment · briny
Intermediate 25 min Vegetarian - The Vegetable-Led Plate
Twice-Cooked Aubergine with Miso Glaze
umami-deep · tangy-ferment · nutty-toasted
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Trinidadian
Uzbek & the Silk Road
- Uzbek & the Silk Road
Dimlama
herb-fresh · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 25 min - Uzbek & the Silk Road
Qovoq Manti
rich · earthy
Advanced 55 min Vegetarian