On the Path of Study: Semester 2: Stocks, Soups & the Simmer, Semester 6: Pastry Fundamentals, Semester 9: Seafood Mastery, Semester 10: The Restaurateur's Capstone
From the Lexicon, Sieves: Chinois, Tamis & Food Mill
Texture's final gatekeepers: the difference between good and restaurant-smooth is usually a pass through mesh. CHINOIS (the conical fine-mesh 'China cap'): sauces, custards, and consommé-adjacent liquids pressed through with a ladle's back, the crème anglaise and silky-soup insurance the pastry wing's custard entries demand. TAMIS (drum sieve): purées pushed across with a scraper: pommes purée's cloud (Robuchon's potatoes are a tamis story), flawless raviolo fillings, sifted dry goods. FOOD MILL: the rustic-smooth middle path. Tomato sauce milled (skins and seeds stay behind, BODY stays in; the sauce wing's Escoffier entry argues this against the blender's foam), mashed potatoes without glue (it cuts, never whips, so starch stays calm), applesauce at volume. The hierarchy by finish: mill = rustic-smooth with body; tamis = refined purée; chinois = liquid silk. Straining is not fussiness; it is the visible difference guests can't name and always notice.
Read it in the Lexicon →How to tell it is going right
- Nothing solid got through: a finger drawn through what came out finds no fibre, seed, skin, curd, or grit.
- Where the dish wants body it was worked through rather than left to drip, and the solids left in the mesh are spent and dry rather than still holding liquid worth having.
- It is judged on the tongue rather than by eye: smooth, with no residual grain left behind after the mouthful has gone.
- The mesh was fine enough for the job and held its shape, and nothing bypassed it by going over the rim.
- The yield is close to what went in less the spent solids: not half of it abandoned in the sieve because it stopped running and nobody pushed.
Where it goes wrong It was pushed through a mesh too coarse for it, or the sieve was overloaded and slopped at the rim, so the fibres it was meant to remove are in the finished sauce and it reads grainy on the tongue.
Alsace & the North
- Alsace & the North
Flammekueche (Tarte Flambée)
rich · warm-spiced · smoky
Intermediate 30 min - Alsace & the North
Baeckeoffe
aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 40 min plus overnight - Alsace & the North
Potjevleesch
bright · smoky · fiery
Advanced 45 min plus overnight
American
Andalusia
- Andalusia
Pescaíto Frito Gaditano
bright · briny
Intermediate 35 min - Andalusia
Tocino de Cielo
sweet-edged · rich · bright
Advanced 30 min plus four hours Vegetarian
Aotearoa & Maori
Australian
Austrian
Bengali
Brazilian
- Brazilian
Beiju de Tapioca
rich
Easy 15 min Vegetarian - Brazilian
Pudim de Leite Condensado
sweet-edged · rich
Intermediate 25 min plus 6 hours Vegetarian
British
- British
Lemon Posset with Shortbread Fingers
bright · rich · fiery
Easy 25 min plus 4 hours Vegetarian - British
Jugged Hare
bright · rich · smoky
Advanced 50 min
Cantonese
- Cantonese
Cheung Fun with Sweet Soy (Rice Noodle Rolls)
nutty-toasted · aromatic · umami-deep
Advanced 45 min Vegetarian - Cantonese
Jiu Yim Yau Yu (Salt and Pepper Squid)
aromatic · fiery · warm-spiced
Intermediate 25 min
Chilean
- Chilean
Caldillo de Congrio
rich · gently hot · bright
Intermediate 40 min - Chilean
Leche Asada
bright · warm-spiced · floral
Easy 15 min Vegetarian
Chinese
- Chinese
Dan Tat (Hong Kong Egg Tart)
silky · rich · floral
Advanced 50 min Vegetarian - Chinese
Ma Tai Gou (Water Chestnut Cake)
rich · charred
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Connecticut
Cuban
- Cuban
Lechón Asado
gently hot · earthy · aromatic
Intermediate 45 min plus 24 hours - Cuban
Flan Cubano
sweet-edged · silky · bright
Intermediate 30 min plus 6 hours Vegetarian
Czech & Slovak
Danish
Delaware
Dessert Atlas
- Dessert Atlas
Cannoli Siciliani
rich · bright · nutty-toasted
Advanced 2 h Vegetarian - Dessert Atlas
Panna Cotta
rich · silky · floral
Easy 30 min Vegetarian
Dominican
- Dominican
Majarete
warm-spiced · rich · floral
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian - Dominican
Morir Soñando
silky
Easy 10 min Vegetarian - Dominican
Habichuelas con Dulce
rich · warm-spiced · silky
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Dumpling Atlas
- Dumpling Atlas
Xiao Long Bao
nutty-toasted · aromatic · umami-deep
Advanced 1 h 35 m plus overnight - Dumpling Atlas
Pierogi z Kapustą i Grzybami
rich · earthy · tangy-ferment
Intermediate 65 min Vegetarian - Dumpling Atlas
Kayseri Mantısı
rich · herb-fresh · umami-deep
Advanced 80 min
East African
Eastern European
- Eastern European
Barszcz
earthy · rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 1 h 30 m Vegetarian - Eastern European
Goose Schmaltz and Gribenes
rich
Easy 75 min
Egyptian
Emilia-Romagna
Emulsions & Pan Sauces
- Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Sauce Béarnaise
bright · herb-fresh · rich
Advanced 30 min Vegetarian - Emulsions & Pan Sauces
Red Wine Jus, Monter au Beurre
rich · aromatic · fiery
Advanced 25 min - Emulsions & Pan Sauces
The Broken Emulsion, Three Rescues
rich
Intermediate 10 min Vegetarian
Ethiopian
- Ethiopian
Berbere
aromatic · warm-spiced · fiery
Intermediate 45 min Vegetarian - Ethiopian
Ayib
silky · warm-spiced
Easy 20 min plus 24 hours Vegetarian
Filipino
- Filipino
Sinigang na Baboy
gently hot · umami-deep · tangy-ferment
Intermediate 1 h 40 m - Filipino
Leche Flan
sweet-edged · rich · fiery
Intermediate 1 h 30 m plus overnight Vegetarian
Finnish
Florida
French
- French
Crème Brûlée
rich · floral · charred
Intermediate 60 min Vegetarian - French
Rillettes de Canard
aromatic · bright · herb-fresh
Intermediate 45 min plus a week - French
Blanquette de Veau à l'Ancienne
rich · bright · umami-deep
Intermediate 60 min - French
Sauce Grand Veneur
rich · gently hot · bright
Advanced 40 min
Garde Manger
Georgian
- Georgian
Tkemali
herb-fresh · aromatic · fiery
Easy 25 min Vegetarian - Georgian
Churchkhela
earthy · nutty-toasted · tangy-ferment
Advanced 45 min Vegetarian
German
- German
Rinderrouladen
rich · umami-deep · sweet-edged
Advanced 2 h 30 m - German
Sauerbraten
aromatic · bright · sweet-edged
Advanced 3 h 20 m plus 3–5 days - German
Schweinshaxe
aromatic · charred
Intermediate 3 h 30 m plus overnight - German
Martinsgans
bright · rich
Advanced 60 min plus two days - German
Rehrücken Baden-Baden
rich · bright · floral
Advanced 45 min
Haitian
Holiday Feast Atlas
- Holiday Feast Atlas
Dry-Brined Roast Turkey with Real Gravy
rich · herb-fresh
Advanced 5 h plus three days - Holiday Feast Atlas
Matzo Ball Soup
herb-fresh · rich · earthy
Intermediate 3 h
Hungarian
- Hungarian
Halászlé
clean · simple
Advanced 45 min - Hungarian
Kovászos uborka
herb-fresh · aromatic · earthy
Easy 20 min Vegetarian
Indian
Indiana
Indonesian
Iraqi
Jamaican
Kansai & Osaka
Kerala & the Malabar Coast
Kyoto & Kaiseki
Levantine
Lyon & Burgundy
- Lyon & Burgundy
Quenelles de Brochet, Sauce Nantua
rich · herb-fresh · aromatic
Advanced 80 min - Lyon & Burgundy
Jambon Persillé de Bourgogne
herb-fresh · aromatic · bright
Intermediate 40 min plus overnight - Lyon & Burgundy
Cervelle de Canut
bright · herb-fresh · aromatic
Easy 20 min Vegetarian
Maine
Malaysian
Maryland
Massachusetts
Mexican
New Orleans
- New Orleans
Gumbo Z'herbes
smoky · aromatic · gently hot
Advanced 3 h - New Orleans
Sazerac
earthy · bright · herb-fresh
Intermediate 10 min Vegetarian
Northern Chinese
- Northern Chinese
Lanzhou Lamian
aromatic · fiery · rich
Advanced 55 min - Northern Chinese
Suan Cai Bai Rou
rich · aromatic · warm-spiced
Intermediate 40 min
Norwegian & Icelandic
Oaxacan
- Oaxacan
Mole Coloradito
nutty-toasted · rich · sweet-edged
Advanced 60 min - Oaxacan
Mole Amarillo con Chochoyotes
gently hot · rich · earthy
Intermediate 55 min - Oaxacan
Chileajo de Verduras
bright · warm-spiced · aromatic
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian - Oaxacan
Nicuatole
fiery
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Offal & the Whole Animal
- Offal & the Whole Animal
Chicken Liver Parfait
rich · aromatic · silky
Advanced 45 min plus overnight - Offal & the Whole Animal
Boudin Noir aux Pommes
rich · sweet-edged
Advanced 60 min
Okinawa
Pacific & Hawaiian
Pacific Islands
- Pacific Islands
Kokoda
bright · rich · fiery
Easy 25 min - Pacific Islands
Lolo (First and Second Pressing)
rich
Intermediate 30 min Vegetarian
Pastry Foundations
Pennsylvania
- Pennsylvania
Pennsylvania Dutch Chicken Corn Soup
herb-fresh · floral
Intermediate 2 h - Pennsylvania
Philadelphia Pepper Pot Soup
gently hot · warm-spiced · sweet-edged
Advanced 4 h
Persian
Peruvian
- Peruvian
Chicha Morada
bright · warm-spiced
Easy 20 min Vegetarian - Peruvian
Picarones
warm-spiced · silky
Advanced 45 min Vegetarian
Polish
Portuguese
Provence & the Midi
Puerto Rican
Punjabi & North Indian
Rhode Island
- Rhode Island
Rhode Island Clear Clam Chowder
briny · rich · herb-fresh
Easy 50 min - Rhode Island
Stuffies
rich · bright · herb-fresh
Intermediate 60 min
Romanian & Bulgarian
- Romanian & Bulgarian
Ciorbă de Burtă
aromatic · gently hot · earthy
Advanced 45 min - Romanian & Bulgarian
Papanași cu Smântână și Dulceață de Afine
silky · rich · bright
Intermediate 35 min Vegetarian
Seafood Atlas
- Seafood Atlas
Linguine alle Vongole
briny · gently hot · rich
Intermediate 40 min - Seafood Atlas
Proper Fish Pie
rich · smoky · bright
Intermediate 1 h 40 m - Seafood Atlas
Kedgeree
smoky · rich · herb-fresh
Intermediate 50 min
Senegalese
Sicilian
- Sicilian
Cuscusu di Pesce alla Trapanese
herb-fresh · floral · briny
Advanced 70 min - Sicilian
Cassata Siciliana
rich · nutty-toasted
Advanced 75 min plus 12 hours Vegetarian
Sri Lankan
- Sri Lankan
Wattalappam
sweet-edged · rich · warm-spiced
Intermediate 20 min Vegetarian - Sri Lankan
Watalappan
sweet-edged · nutty-toasted · rich
Intermediate 20 min Vegetarian
Stock & Fond Atlas
- Stock & Fond Atlas
Brown Veal Stock
umami-deep · rich · fiery
Advanced 60 min plus 8 to 12 hours - Stock & Fond Atlas
Dashi, Ichiban
umami-deep
Easy 20 min - Stock & Fond Atlas
Fumet de Poisson
umami-deep · rich · gently hot
Intermediate 35 min - Stock & Fond Atlas
Prawn Head and Shell Stock
umami-deep · herb-fresh · bright
Intermediate 40 min - Stock & Fond Atlas
Fond de Légumes
herb-fresh · gently hot · rich
Easy 30 min Vegetarian - Stock & Fond Atlas
Tonkotsu Broth
rich · aromatic
Advanced 60 min plus 8 to 12 hours - Stock & Fond Atlas
Chicken Consommé, Raft Method
gently hot · herb-fresh
Advanced 45 min - Stock & Fond Atlas
Shojin Dashi, Kombu and Shiitake
umami-deep
Easy 20 min plus 8 to 12 hours Vegetarian
Tamil & the South
- Tamil & the South
Arachuvitta Sambar
bright · gently hot · sweet-edged
Intermediate 45 min Vegetarian - Tamil & the South
Vatha Kuzhambu
bright · aromatic · gently hot
Intermediate 40 min Vegetarian
Tennessee
The Cure
- The Cure
Duck Prosciutto
gently hot
Intermediate 20 min plus 10 to 21 days - The Cure
Confit Duck Leg
aromatic · gently hot · warm-spiced
Intermediate 30 min plus a week - The Cure
Pork Rillettes
fiery · bright · warm-spiced
Intermediate 40 min plus overnight
The French Basque & Gascony
The Rice Bowl
The Saucier
The Vegetable-Led Plate
Trinidadian
Venezuelan
Vermont
West Virginia
- West Virginia
Pawpaw Pudding
rich · warm-spiced · floral
Intermediate 80 min Vegetarian - West Virginia
Salt-Rising Bread
rich
Advanced 16 h plus overnight Vegetarian